Working on to sole

I have been working on refreshing the sole (floor) in QC. I paid a floor guy $750 to lightly sand the finish on our floors. I say lightly sand the finish because you really don't want to "Sand the Floor" since the teak and holly flooring is not a solid board but a thin veneer you don't want to damage the wood by sanding, you just want to remove the finish (which in our case is the previous owners choice of using "Liquid Gold"). Well he did a CRAPPY JOB and did not take the time to do it right and applied a thick coat of tung oil and did not wipe it off within an hour. Instead he applied a thick coat and left the boat to return the next day which ended up two days later which meant too much tung oil dried on top of the wood and as a result became grimy looking after you walked on it. So I have spent many hours on my knees fixing his missteps. Moral is be there to supervise and tell them how you want it done...daaaa. 

Anyway it is looking good, I'm doing one area at a time using Scotchbrite pads and wet sanding the floor enough to find the wood but not sand it off then apply two light coats of teak oil applied...wait 5 minutes and then towel it off with a clean dry towel. The result is a clean floor with a satin finish that is beautiful and is not slick when wet, or dry, or in sock, or bare feet!

Wet sanding the teak and holly sole (floor) with a Shurhold Orbital Buffer and 3M Scotchbrite pads (red very fine). The object is to remove the topical finish until the holly wood once again emerges white. Then finish with teak oil but wipe dry 5-10 minutes after applying the oil.

Look at the difference the oil makes!

Wet sanded down to the wood on the left, and just after the teak oil was applied on the right.

Here I'm finished after applying 3 thin coats of Teak Oil. We will not varnish the flloors since the teak oil finish is less slippery when wet and can be cleaned and recoated as often as needed.